The Virgin Islands | of the United States THE VIRGIN ISLANDS OF THE UNITED STATES COCOANUT PALMS, ST. THOMAS f UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR WASHINGTON, D. C. ----- - APRIL, 1932 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/virginislandsofuunit UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR RAY LYMAN WILBUR, Secretary GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS OF THE UNITED STATES APRIL, 193: UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON : 1932 For sale by the superintendent of documents, Washington, D. C. CONTENTS Page Chapter I .—A General Description of the Islands 1 Geographical Location 1 Physical Characteristics 3 Climate 6 Population 6 Education 7 Labor 7 Religion 8 Chapter 1 1 .—Government of the Virgin Islands 8 General Description 8 Political Status of Inhabitants 9 The Law 9 Taxation 10 Dhapter III.—Banking and Financial Condition 10 Chapter IV.—Agriculture, Summary 10 Chapter V.—Economic Conditions 13 General 13 St. Thomas 13 St. John 16 St. Croix 16 Chapter VI.—Living Conditions and Accommodations 19 Chapter VII.—Recreation 20 Sports and Amusements 20 Transportation 21 APPENDIXES V. Temperature and Rainfall 22 3. Rainfall (St. Thomas) 22 1 Rainfall (St. Croix) 22 0. Sugar Production and Exportation Statistics 23 5. Birth Rate and Death Rate 23 ?. Censuses of Virgin Islands 24 j. Bay Rum Statistics 24 1. Cattle Exports 25 '.. Acreage ( St. Croix) 25 \. Sugar Exports 25 I Types of Fish 26 L Mortality Statistics 27 VI. School Attendance 27 Q Department of Education 27 ). Bunker Coal and Fuel Oil Imports 28 3 . Ships Paying Pilotage ( St. Thomas) 28 ^. Arrivals of Ocean-going Ships 28 }. Trade with United States 29 5. Imports and Exports 29 T. Money Orders Issued and Paid J. Savings Deposits 7. Depositors' Balances (St. Croix) iV. Virgin Islands Official Directory 31 in VIRGIN ISLANDS JostVanDykel TORTOLA I °*r;---4Q.?'>AlK Tobago iA vw^» Cockroach j HansLollik Cay °< <3 ANEGADA Ruffling Pt Lit.Anegadal j£ Soldier Pt. East Pt I8°40 Mosquito I. Seal Dog; > Neckerl. Pajaros Pt . 6rt Camanoe \.^ n c£ | s ^ "Gual^ltVWl CAR Hams Bluff / B B E Salt River Pt A N cs Buck Southwest Pt C/ y £'' [ ST. CROIX I. 3 E A Figure 1 JV 2 *s •o o "A • — \ Suj KJv /> -o > , J a: r-^t_ Q.^ ) m Z o^ a. •< U) —1 c o i ^, ^ z O S £H ^^A)? S vn j£ »^g£ A _J *~"\S\Q> ^ \\ — Z Af^U 1 ^ —ig z e — o 5£ - /5I N v. , r* ^ j ^ z v »\ > 1 >t §1 v i it fr = § F •, <* - in/" H- 5ii ^~^ _^_ "3 '8 •D Figure 2 THE VIRGIN ISLANDS OF THE UNITED STATES CHAPTER I A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS Geographical location.—In 1917 the group of islands called the Virgin Islands )f the United States were acquired from Denmark for $25,000,000. With but bwo short interruptions when taken for a total of nine years by England, Den- nark had held this group of islands for nearly three centuries. They lie 40 miles 3ast of Porto Rico and 1,400 miles southeast of New York, and consist of ibout 50 islands and cays. Only half a dozen of these islands are inhabited ind only three have any size or importance. They are St. Thomas, St. John, ind St. Croix (Santa Cruz). St. John lies only a few miles east of St. Thomas, vhile St. Croix lies 40 miles to the south. The Atlantic washes the northern shores of St. Thomas and St. John, while the Caribbean laves their southern reaches and surrounds St. Croix. The total area of these three islands is less ;han 140 square miles, and St. Croix has nearly two-thirds of that. The seat of government and the center of commercial activity is at St. Thomas, whose larbor is one of the finest in the Caribbean. From that day in 1493 when Columbus discovered the Virgin Islands, and heir fierce Carib Indian inhabitants, on his second voyage to America, they lave always been in the center of the western world's life. The trail he blazed >ecame the Atlantic highway. Early voyagers found here the nearest New ^Vorld haven as they set out westward upon new discoveries. Here privateers md buccaneers found hidden harbors of refuge from which they scouted for the lea-born wealth of the Spanish main. Various nationals began settlements in he early seventeenth century and set up rivalries that resulted in constant varfare until the islands came under the rule of Denmark in 1671. For several senturies the rise and fall of the various nations that successively wrested parts >f the New World from each other kept the magnificent harbor of St. Thomas ull of activity and the towns of Charlotte Amalie (later renamed St. Thomas), I!hristiansted, and Frederiksted, full of intrigue and colorful life that has left ts permanent marks to charm the visitor to-day. When wars grew less frequent and the commerce of rapid colonization replaced hem, the harbor of St. Thomas became a port of great importance. Located it the crossroads of the seas, it became the point of transshipment for merchan- lise brought there for redistribution; and the heavy walled warehouses that o-day extend back to its main street three or four hundred feet from the water ront bear mute testimony to that golden age before scientific advancements md industrial developments began to steal away the commercial glory which he opening of a New World temporarily lent it. These islands were once the wholesale center of the American slave industry, ^hristiansted and Frederiksted on St. Croix were the American counterparts )f similar fortresses set up by Denmark in her African slaves' lands; and here he slaves were brought in shiploads to the market which supplied the islands o the west and the cotton and tobacco fields of the United States. Meanwhile hey cultivated these islands from sea to mountain top. Their own savagery 1 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS and the cruelty with which they were treated resulted in several bloody insui rections and the slaughter of many whites. Some of the slave markets sti stand in the cities, while in the country one sees the ruins of marvelous "grea houses," surrounded by the old slave quarters. The islands' three cities remain truly ancient. Time has to all appearance generously stayed its hand beyond adding a colorful antiquity to their build Blackbeard's Castle, St. Thomas ings. Their few paved streets and their movie houses afford only enough of modern contrast to frame and emphasize the ancient. While these and electric lights, up-to-date sanitation, hospitalization, and education have, of course, added their necessary benefits, they have not spoiled the picture. What changes have come have not destroyed the old architecture or the old feeling. It would be hard to tell whether the building you see is 20 years old or 200, save on close GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 6 examination. There is hardly a store window to be found in the islands. High arched doorways lead through thick walls into the buildings that crowd each other and front close upon the narrow walks and narrow streets. Merchandise in wide variety is displayed after its own fashion and needs usually to be hunted out; but the hunting will lead to interesting discoveries, one of which will be the comparatively low prices due to the fact that the Virgin Islands are prac- tically a "free port." As in a previous age, donkeys with loaded panniers jog or plod down the streets; and erect, dark-skinned Amazons deftly balance on their heads their baskets or trays of fruits or their cans of water. Bluebeard s Castle, St. Thomas NATURAL RESOURCES Physical characteristics.—Like their British and French sister Virgins to the east and south, the Virgin Islands of the United States are of ancient volcanic origin, with mountain ridges 1,000 to 1,500 feet high, running their lengths east to west. On St. Thomas and St. John these mountains slope sharply to the sea on all sides and leave only small pockets of cultivatable land in the ravines between projecting spurs. On St. Croix, however, the land slopes gradually south for 5 miles to the Caribbean and makes possible the agriculture which has supported that island with varying success for the centuries of its history. While traces of many minerals have been found on these islands, there are none known to exist in paying quantities, despite the glowing reports of early voyagers to the West Indies. Those reports of fabulous wealth have never found the slightest substantiation, though repeated expeditions have made diligent search and legend still persists. Scientific expeditions have, however, under the inspiration of Carib inscriptions found in various places, successfully undertaken archaeological research. On all three islands have been found the 104167°—32 2 4 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS evidence of a crude civilization that long antedated the discovery of America. Si one implements, earthen pottery, and interesting carvings have been disj o,n ered and may now be found in various museums in the United States. Local amateur archaeologists have, from time to time, made interesting collections, and the known middens still give up intriguing fragments to those who care to do a Little digging. No doubt important finds yet await the serious searcher. STEPS TO FRENCHMEN'S HILL, ST. THOMAS It has been generally supposed that the Virgin Islands were once covered with mahogany and other valuable cabinet woods and that dense forests of these trees were cut off in the early days and then again later to make place for cane when slave labor cultivated even the steep hillsides. The Bureau of Forestry, however, considers this extremely doubtful, and does not believe that these cabinet woods are indigenous to these islands. They do grow well there, but GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE YIRGIN ISLANDS 6 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS the specimens scattered sparsely throughout the islands or standing in clumps about old ruins and along the sides of many roads, are believed to have been imported. Little natural young growth of these trees is to be found, but thou- sands are now being set out, and seem to do well. Most of St. Thomas and St John and much of St. Croix is thickly covered with many different types oi trees, but these are not of accepted commercial value, nor of size or charactei to be considered forests. Where the land is not cleared for cultivation or grazing these scattered trees are interspersed with dense growths of underbrush and vines 11 Kit rapidly reclaim any land that is left uncared for for even a year or two Many of these trees afford food in the form of wild fruits, such as the mango, the soursop, etc.; but most of them are valuable only as wood for the burning of charcoal—the universal fuel of the Virgin Islands. CLIMATIC CONDITIONS Climate.—The climate of the Virgin Islands is semitropical, and records support the oft-repeated claim that they are one of the healthiest spots in the world. Tropical diseases are practically unknown and the quarantine station has not had a single occupant for years. Although there is much tropical insect life and the bed net is universally used, sanitation plus the tropical sun make flies and mosquitoes less bothersome than in the Middle Atlantic States. The temperature ranges from 69 degrees to 91 degrees with a difference of about 10 degrees between winter and summer averages. While midday is usually very warm and business is largely suspended from 12 to 2, there is generally a fine sea breeze blowing from the east, which tempers the tropical sun and keeps down the humidity. The rainfall (usually in the form of showers) varies somewhat from month to month, but there is no dry season and no wet season such as many places know, though the averages show about 45 per cent of the rain falling in the last four months of the year. Over a period of 10 years the average annual rainfall on St. Thomas has been about 45 inches, and on St. Croix about 40 inches—not quite enough for really secure agriculture, because of the porous soil and high evaporation. There are no permanent streams of any size on the islands. An increasing number of shallow wells provide water for cattle and occasionally for garden produce, but it is usually too brackish for human use. All water for domestic purposes (except flushing, for which the towns have salt water systems) is caught on the roofs or on the city's mountainside concrete catchments; but all cisterns must be kept screened, and for added security must contain the tiny "mosquito fish." To the surprise of all visitors, the drinking water is excellent, and health records attest its purity. The hurricanes which occasionally visit the West Indies correspond very closely to the Kansas cyclone in origin, action, severity, localization, and infrequency; but very seldom are there any lives lost. Warnings are given hours (or even days) ahead of their coming, affording ample time to seek safety within the thick-walled, heavily barred buildings. These hurricanes need deter no one from coming here to visit or to live. Many years usually intervene between destructive visitations, The hurricane season is officially from July 25 to October 25. INHABITANTS Population.—The population of the Virgin Islands has declined from 33,000 to 22,000 since 1900, largely through emigration to New York. Of these, about 2,000 are white, 3,000 are of mixed blood, and the remainder are negro descendants of the Africans brought to this wholesale slave market a century or two ago. The whites include a colony of French fishing stock that has for many generations kept itself strictly isolated from the rest of the inhabitants, and has maintained I); !' GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS / the purity of its race and language. Some of these have turned farmers and have set a fine example of industry and frugality. Because of male emigration, the female population of the islands exceeds the male by about 20 per cent, which adds to the social problem. Education.—The average intelligence of the people is fairly high. This is probably due in large measure to the generations of cosmopolitan contacts which the harbor has afforded; but it is also due to the compulsory education which was required under the old Danish laws and since continued under the American administration of the government. The schools carry through the twelfth grade, and are well enough organized and conducted to warrant most of the foreign resi- dents in sending their children to them. They are under the supervision of com- petent directors from the United States, while most of the teachers are natives educated in the islands. Children of the different races attend school together Loading Coal at St. Thomas is they do in the northern parts of continental United States, and those who later 50 elsewhere to continue their education attest to the satisfactory standards naintained. No small number have pursued their education abroad and made ine records throughout the world or returned to render their fellow islanders jxcellent service and fine examples. Some of these, and others, have also shown narked business ability, have accumulated considerable property, and have well sarned the respect that is accorded them by whites and colored alike. Despite Danish rule for centuries, the language of the islands is English—further evidence )f cosmopolitan influence. The native people are, as a whole, law-abiding and espectful of authority. They are notably hospitable, courteous, and friendly. Labor.—While labor would not be called efficient if measured by continental Jnited States standards, wages are correspondingly low. It must be remembered, lowever, that this is a tropical race still living in a tropical climate; that the iving scale is low, nature is extremely kind, and needs are few. The past has 8 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS not show n opportunities often enough, great enough, or general enough to stimu- late or warrant much general ambition or initiative; and necessity has not until now demanded it. Religion.—-The people as a whole are very religious, in that there are many churches of many denominations and most of the people are members of one or another, and attendants, too; but the primitive concept of religion remains. The following religious denominations maintain places of worship and organized work in the Virgin Islands: Moravian, Anglican, Roman Catholic, Lutheran, Wesleyan Methodist, Seventh-day Adventists, Pilgrim Holiness, African Metho- dist Episcopal, Christian Mission, and Orthodox Jewish. CHAPTER II GOVERNMENT OF THE ISLANDS General description.—The government of the Virgin Islands of the United States consists of a governor appointed by the President of the United States, a §r 1 ! Il 8 S . in m rtfm ™" $1 B ' jaBfc-w fcS?ffi'>£ '«-' _ -EtgflfflBMl ^SkiK^:''^' 'jSMW Government House, St. Thomas staff for central administration appointed by the Secretary of the Interior, two Colonial Councils established under Danish law, and municipal staffs appointed by the governor. The Colonial Council of St. Thomas and St. John consists of 11 elected members and 4 members appointed by the governor. The Colonial Council of St. Croix is made up of 13 elected and 5 appointed members. The Colonial Councils pass all laws governing the islands, but these are subject in whole and in part to the approval of the governor and of the President of the United States. The governor has authority to dissolve the councils, but not more than twice in two years. Only twice has this authority been exercised in 1922 and in 1925. The governor has also the right to issue executive orders which have all the effect of law. GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 9 Political status of inhabitants—Citizenship.—On February 25, 1927, nearly 10 years after the transfer of the Virgin Islands to the United States, the Presi- dent approved an act of Congress granting United States citizenship to certain inhabitants of the Virgin Islands. The following classes of persons were granted full United States citizenship by this act: (a) All former Danes who were residing in the Virgin Islands of the United States on January 17, 1917, and in the Virgin Islands, continental United States, or Porto Rico on February 25, 1927. (b) All natives of the Virgin Islands who were residing in the Virgin Islands of the United States on January 17, 1917, and in the Virgin Islands, continental United States, or Porto Rico on Februarv 25, 1927. Government House, Christiansted, St. Croix (c) All natives of the Virgin Islands who were residing in continental United States on January 17, 1917, but in the Virgin Islands on February 25, 1927. Natives of the Virgin Islands who were residing in the United States on Jan- uary 17, 1917, and on February 25, 1927, were given the privilege of naturaliza- tion within one year on petition, without the necessity of making a declaration of intention. This privilege was also accorded to all aliens who were residing in the Virgin Islands on both dates named above. This act also conferred upon the district court of the Virgin Islands the power to naturalize aliens in the Virgin Islands. Under local law the franchise is extended only to such males of 25 years of age or over as have a total income of at least $300 a year or a property income of $60 a year in St. Croix, or of $140 a year in St. Thomas. The economic status of the people will be seen from the fact that less than 10 per cent of the 22,000 people were qualified to vote at the last elections. Some council members are elected by less than a score of voters. The law.—The act of Congress of March 3, 1917, specifically continued in effect all local laws in effect at the time of the transfer of the islands from Den- mark to the United States, and not incompatible with the changed sovereignty. 10 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS Taxation. Import taxes range from 6 per rent in St. Thomas to 15 per ( . r|] , J,, St. Croix. This obviously makes it necessary for all shipments to the I Qited States from the islands be considered as from a foreign port unless it be established thai such shipments are of Virgin Islands origin or that not over 20 per cenl of foreign goods enters into their fabricated value. CHAPTER III BANKING Banking and financial condition.—Except for a small savings bank in St. Croix, the banking operations of the Virgin Islands are conducted entirely by the National Bank of the Danish West Indies, which was established in the islands in 1904, and which holds an exclusive charter for the right to issue cur- rency until 1934. This local currency is based on francs and bits. One hun- dred bits equals 1 franc, and 5 francs are equivalent to $1.04 United States cur- rency. The total deposits of the National Bank of the Danish West Indies as of September 30, 1931, were Frcs. 6,573,576, of which Frcs. 4,276,193 were sav- ings deposits, Frcs. 1,457,822 were checking accounts, and Frcs. 829,561 were time deposits. For the transfer of funds to and from the United States and Europe, the local post office is a considerable factor. During the fiscal year ending June 30, 1931, the local post office issued 19,213 money orders to a total value of $318,037.13, and this post office also cashed 4,393 money orders to a total value of $62,819.13. On the 30th of June, 1931, the National Bank of the Danish West Indies had out in loans against mortgages in real estate $111,507 and against personal and other securities $121,628. The municipality of St. Croix had out real estate and crop loans to the amount of $196,335 while the municipality of St. Thomas and St. John had out similar loans to the value of $62,776. The total taxes assessed during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1931, amounted to $206,814 plus harbor charges of $30,045. It is of importance to note that out of 22,000 inhabitants only 102 have sufficient income to require the payment of Federal income tax and that such total taxes for the calendar year 1930 amounted to $23,894.35. No word on the financial condition of the islands is complete without the em- phasis of two factors. The first is that mortgages and loans, bank and municipal, are somewhat frozen by the steady economic decline during the past years and the consequent reduction of incomes, property values, and opportunities for sale. The second is that the National Bank of the Danish West Indies, which has well served the islands for many years, has, of right and necessity, during recent years, been compelled to gradually limit its scope and character of operations in anticipa- tion of its withdrawal in 1934. In consequence of these two factors moneys avail- able for commercial and mortgage loans are very limited, and the securities avail- able for such loans are greatly reduced. CHAPTER IV AGRICULTURE Summary.—The agricultural conditions and problems are discussed in detail in a subsequent chapter devoted to the economic conditions prevailing in each island, but a general summary of agriculture is presented here. The ruggedness of St. Thomas and St. John, together with the fact that St. Thomas had for centuries been supported by its harbor, have until now discour- aged horticultural development and obviated any great need for it. There are many lands, however, less suited for agriculture that are being extensively and GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 11 104167°—32 3 12 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS profitably cultivated. Because of topography, commercial cultivation of citrus and other tropical fruits is not practical, but any or all of them can be grown and the most of ihcm are grown. At the present time, however, most fruits can be imported from the commercial producers in Porto Rico for less than the price charged by local growers. That extreme condition, however, is only temporary. Approximately the same situation to a lesser extent exists also with regard to vegetables. The sun's direct rays in the summer, the low rainfall, the lack of streams, and the scarcity of wells make it difficult to grow vegetables to advan- tage in the summer time, but during the fall and winter months there is an ample supply. Experimental shipments of tomatoes, onions, peppers, and eggplant have been made from all three islands with the varying success that always at- tends long-distance shipments of perishable goods to a big market without having direct contact with the ultimate consumer. an inner Court, St. Thomas On St. Croix there are thousands of acres of level rolling land wonderfully suited for fruits and vegetables except for the uncertainty of water, and there is hope of overcoming that handicap if recent successes with the driving of shallow wells continue. As on the other islands, however, there has been no extensive cultiva- tion of fruits or vegetables beyond that required for local consumption. Condi- tions as a whole have been so much more favorable for cane and cattle that the land and the money have been applied in those directions. Vegetable growing and fruit growing are, however, on the increase, and the homesteading about to be inaugurated will further stimulate their cultivation. The growing season for vegetables in the Virgin Islands begins in September and green produce can be started into the New York market by the middle of December. With direct boats making a trip north in five days it is reasonable expectation for a cooperative organization to grow produce for the northern winter market and successfully compete. The large landowners' lack of interest and the small farmers' and squatters' lack of money and inability to take the risk are paramount factors in this situation. GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 13 CHAPTER V ECONOMIC CONDITIONS General.—The economic problems of the islands and their people are serious and difficult of solution. The mainstays—cane and commerce—have been hard hit by the purely natural course of events. Cattle grazing has advanced but employs almost no labor. Soil, unreliable rainfall, high evaporation, and topog- raphy make horticulture difficult and uncertain; and distance from markets adds to its handicaps. Industries that must meet the competition of mass machine production are largely impractical in the Virgin Islands, but some of them—em- broidery, sewing, etc.—look promising. So also does the preparation of certain canned specialties and the manufacture of certain novelties for special class mar- West from Bluebeard castle, St. Thomas kets. Developments will, however, be retarded by many handicaps and peculiar inhibitions that need not here be enumerated. The problems of the three larger islands are all difficult and entirely different in character. The other 50 islands, more or less, have no problems since they are merely uncultivatable and un- inhabited volcanic cays jutting up here and there from the sea. The economic picture of each island shown separately may be interesting. St. Thomas.—This island, second in size, is about 14 miles long and 2 miles wide, and about 7,500 of its 10,000 population is centered in the town of St. Thomas (formerly called Charlotte Amalie), terraced on the hillsides that rise sharply from its excellent bay to buttress the mountain behind them. This bay is the key to the past and present economic position of St. Thomas. Through the days of discovery, exploration, conquest, colonization, buccaneering, slavery, and commercial development, this harbor was for centuries the natural port of call for sailers and later steamers. Here shipping lanes crossed. Here ships later 14 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS found cable connections with all parts of the world, and coal, food, and water for replenishment. Here they unloaded cargoes for transshipment in every direction and picked up others in exchange. But with the passage of time large ships have replaced smaller ones; and coal and <»il have supplanted sail. Refrigeration has largely eliminated the food problems of ships, while condensers now afford fresh water from salt. The win less gives ships their constant contacts with the world wherever they may be. Foreign countries have developed other West Indian island ports and support them by patronage and subsidies. The former great need for St. Thomas has, therefore, been materially lessened by science and commercial competition, and nothing has come to take the place of the shipping that gave it birth, life, and prosperity, though its service is as available as ever, and better. This decline has been progressing steadily for many years. Villa Olga, St. Thomas The West India Co. (Ltd.) has here a deep-water dock 3,000 feet long, with warehouses, oil and water tanks, coal cranes, machine shops, and every facility except a dry dock for the servicing of ships. This company employs most of the employed labor of St. Thomas, and has done so for years. The bay-rum industry, for which St. Thomas is most widely known, has spread its name throughout the world with much resultant good will. An annual average of 32,000 gallons of bay rum were exported during the 10 years 1910-1919; an annual average of 82,000 gallons for the 10 years 1920-1929, and 138,000 gallons for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1931. This industry employs about 100 people in the process from bay tree to packing case. Any industrial expectation or any industrial development must take into account the location, the topography, the climate, and the soil of the islands, together with the background and character of its inhabitants and the small! scattered population of the islands. St. Thomas affords no large cultivatableij areas, and neither fruits nor vegetables can be produced and shipped to compete with quantity production of larger and better adapted areas; but jellies, jams, GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 15 and tropical preserves of highly specialized character, afford a definite oppor- tunity that is being gradually developed. Most of the area of St. Thomas is given over to cattle grazing for the local meat and dairy market and for export to Porto Rico. Though the seas abound in fish there are no great schools or fishing banks, the fish are migratory and of widely varied character. Lobsters Charcoal Boats at Fortola Wharf, st. Thomas (langustae) are being supplied to the ships that call at St. Thomas. Live turtles are shipped to the States and a canning plant is producing and shipping to the United States and the surrounding islands an excellent and inexpensive grade of turtle soup, which will soon be supplemented with other related products. Nat i ve women do excellent handwork, embroidery, lace making, and basketry, and there is prospect of the early establishment of specialized industries along that line. 16 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS Everything musl be planned from a specialized standpoint both in production and marketing, since mass production and mass marketing are out of the question. St. John.— This island, which is nearly as large as St. Thomas and located only 3 miles east across Pillsbury Sound, is truly virgin. Strange to say it has qo urgenl economic problem. There is not a wagon road on it, and only horse- luck 1 rails wind <»ver its mountains, along its shores, and through its small, deep densely forested valleys. The spurs of its steep mountains jut into the turquoise sea, Leaving innumerable bays edged with beautiful white beaches that are inva- riably fringed with tropical trees. The intense and varied colors of the water surrounding all of the islands seem most beautiful here. Two little settlements, Cruz Bay and Coral Bay, mark the western and eastern ends of St. .John and account for about 100 of its 750 inhabitants, only 6 of whom are while. On this island, once widely cultivated by slaves, the natives now eke out their living on little garden plots amid the forests, and by picking bay Leaves, burning charcoal to sell in St. Thomas, and by catching a few fish. Having less than the people of the other islands and living still more primitively, these people are, however, happier because they are more independent and are largely isolated from the causes of discontent. St. John is unquestionably the gem of the Virgin Islands, yet few people have ever seen it. Some day its ruined estates will be restored; some day St. John will be discovered by a few men who want to find unspoiled beauty and true isolation only five days from New York, but yet a million miles removed from its noise, its mad whirl, and its futile pressure. Here sport fishing is at its best; for motor boat or sail, it is ideal; for beautiful saddle trails it is unexcelled. St. Croix (Santa Cruz).—This island may be seen to the south from St. Thomas most any day across 40 miles of rough Caribbean blue. This, the largest of the Virgins, is latticed with fair roads throughout its 20-mile length and 5-mile width. A new highway is being reconstructed between the towns of Frederiksted (2,000 population) on the west coast and Christiansted (3,000 population), which lies on a beautiful coral-bound bay on the north shore, 15 miles to the east. From the mountains that rise abruptly along its northern shore to the low-lying coast on the south, throughout its length may be seen the old ruins of former prosperous sugar estates, topping each rolling hill. Around many of these the luxuriant cane still grows, for this island still depends for its life upon sugar; but less than 5,000 cane acres now remain of the 18,000 once given over to its cultivation, and only one mill of 250 tons capacity now remains of the three that ground 1,100 tons daily but a few years ago. The tremendous increase in the world's cane and beet acreage, and the consequent low r price of sugar, have made it difficult, though not impossible, to continue profitable production of sugar on St. Croix, with its uncertain rainfall and its low acre yield. Long-staple cotton was once grown extensively and very profitably on St. Croix, but the ravages of the pink boll worm destroyed this industry for which soil and climate are unusually well suited, and to which its labor is well adapted. After many years of no cultivation a survey during the past year (1931) dis- closed that the pest still survives in the few wild cotton plants that have persisted through from the time of cultivation. A thorough clean-up of all wild cotton and other latent host plants has been completed and will be repeated during the coming year, with the expectation of resuming cotton planting in 1933 under a program of "clean culture" and control methods prescribed and super- vised by the Department of Agriculture. But here again comes the matter of money, and outside interests will doubtless acquire much of the land while the municipality will have to finance the planting of most of the cotton. Of the 51,000 acres of land on St. Croix, 41,000 are now given over to cattle grazing as the least costly and least hazardous use to which it can be put. These GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 17 18 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS acres suppori about 15,000 animals, chiefly cattle. Some dairy stock is raised, bul the Local market for dairy products is limited by the community's size and income, while production does not allow export competition. Cattle, there- for.-, arc bred largely for the beef market or cane fields of Porto Rico, where St. Croix working bulls bring a premium and can be readily spotted among the oxen that make cane production possible. Withal, the reasonably successful cattle industry of St. Croix does little to lessen its economic problem, for it uses 80 per cent of the land of the island and employs only 3 per cent of its labor. Further, grazing land pays only one-third the acre tax that is imposed upon cane land, while sugar pays an additional tax (export) of $6 a ton. There is a definite penalty put upon the cultivation of land, which may have been proper during the days of sugar's great prosperity, but not now. It is also of economic import Modern Market, Bank in background, St. Thomas that 80 per cent of the land in cattle is owned by about a score of men, while a dozen more at most own practically all the rest of the land, outside of the two small towns. Recognizing this situation, a rehabilitation plan formulated by the United States Bureau of Efficiency and approved by the Congress of the United States provided for the inauguration of a homesteading program to settle some hun- dreds of families upon good fertile land that they might acquire by purchase upon demonstration of their willingness and ability to make proper use of it. The appropriation also makes funds available for cooperation in the purchase of equipment. Several years ago an industrial alcohol plant was started near Frederiksted, St. Croix, under Government license and supervision. In addition to industrial alcohol it produces extracts, insecticides, bay rum, etc. This industry has possibilities of definite expansion. GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 19 Fishing on St. Croix, as on St. Thomas and St. John, is not an industry in the ordinary sense of the word, because it is not centralized either in operation or in marketing. The surrounding seas abound in fish of many varieties, yet fishing is carried on only for personal or local consumption. CHAPTER VI LIVING CONDITIONS AND ACCOMMODATIONS Previous reference has been made to climate, temperature, and sanitation, and that will not be repeated except to emphasize that they are all that could be desired. Climate has such a definite relationship to clothing that it need only be pointed out that tropical garments are essential to comfort—light summer fabrics (chiefly cotton) for women and cotton and linen suits for men. White canvas shoes with leather soles are preferable for both men and women. Social life is of a moderate and simple character. A Fisherman's Home, St. Thomas On St. Thomas and St. Croix there are several well-run, clean, and comfortable boarding houses of the "pension" type, but the only hotel is the Grand Hotel at St. Thomas, built a number of years ago, and just recently very much improved. This hotel is separated from the bay only by a small park, and its second-story dining balcony commands a beautiful view out over both. Its rooms are large, high ceilinged, airy, and simply furnished. There are also available a good selec- tion of semifinished houses and bungalows at reasonable rates. " Semifurnished" houses means, in the Virgin Islands, that the house has what furniture is re- quired (many have more), but no linen or silver. However, these latter items may be arranged for. The St. Thomas Improvement Association has set up a service bureau to find suitable living quarters for those interested, and the Department of Industry, a government bureau, at St. Thomas, is also ready to assist in any practical way. The stores, particularly in St. Thomas, carry extensive stocks of merchandise that will meet all normal requirements. Each of the three cities in the Virgin Islands has its government hospital, staffed by highly trained medical men and women, and the facilities and methods are modern in every respect. Good dentists, trained in northern colleges, are available; also an experienced optician. 20 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS CHAPTER VII RECREATION Sports and amusements.—Except for the talkies twice a week and an occasional dance a1 the hotel or the tennis club, the recreations of the Virgin Islands are all outdoors. On St. Croix there is wide use for a motor car; on St. John there is none; and on St. Thomas the need is constant though the range of travel is limited. Taxi service is available at about the price prevailing in New York, and cars may be rented for whatever term is desired. The cars are nearly all small ones, mostly of one popular make. They can be rented for a couple of months for much less than the cost of transporting a car from the States. Horseback riding holds endless opportunities not only for the natural thrill of that sport but also for exploring the islands where the motor car can not go and Fort Christian, St. Thomas (Built in 1671) where natural and primitive conditions are most interesting. This is particularly true of St. Thomas and St. John, which are decidedly rugged and where roads are few on the one and nonexistent on the other. Your horse will take you into deep, dense valleys, to beaches not otherwise to be reached, and to mountain tops where you may look down upon the Atlantic and the Caribbean, dotted in every direc- tion with rugged islands upon which the sea breaks eternally. St. Croix holds just as much opportunity for horseback riding, but most of the island can be reached by motor car. Swimming is, as everywhere, the most popular form of recreation and exercise. The beaches are not developed by concessionaires, nor bordered by pavilions; but the warm, buoyant blue water rolls in gently onto white sand just as it must have done in the time of Columbus. The only changes are the diving floats and the bathhouses which the beach clubs of St. Thomas and Frederiksted have set GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS 21 in among the palm trees. Bathing is the regular afternoon function of the local colonies the year round, and it is a marked part also of the native life. The golfer will find a picturesque nine-hole course in St. Thomas laid out in a small valley between the mountains and the sea, with both in full view. The course looks easy but is not. It is well kept and only 2 miles from town. As on most southern courses, the "greens" are brown sand. The standard charge for caddies is 20 cents for nine holes, and fees are 50 cents a day or $5 a month. Both St. Thomas and St. Croix have their tennis clubs, where courts and "ball boys" are at your service for a very small fee. Sport fishing has not been pursued here sufficiently to develop the art and business of "guiding" or the special fishing boat such as is found in Florida, but there are a hundred skilled market fishermen, scores of sail boats and a few power boats, and an untold quantity and variety of fish throughout the Virgin Islands' waters; and over on St. John is a fishing club which sees many week-end fishing parties, for there are many Waltonians. Visiting fishermen will find ample facilities for enjoyment of the sport. The most commonly caught fish on troll is the barracuda, which in these waters so abound as to be a nuisance at times, for they too frequently cut off other fish that have been hooked. Their average weight is perhaps 15 pounds, but are occasionally caught up to 40 and 50 pounds. Tarpon, locally called bass, are taken occasionally. Kingfish running from 10 to 30 pounds are fairly plentiful at seasons, while the various members of the carang family and the bonito are the most common next to the barracuda. Those who prefer stillfishing may collect a veritable bouquet of colorful fish—yellowtail, Spanish angel, grunt, butterfish, olewives, snapper, etc.—and there are places on projecting rocks where fish may be seen by the hundreds and where one has to be fast to get his fish out before a larger one tears him off. Except for hand-line fishing and metal spoons, proper tackle is not obtainable here. Rods, reels, fine lines (up to 18 thread), leaders, etc., should be brought along. Do not rely on ordinary piano wire, for it rusts and breaks too quickly. Stainless-steel spring wire seems to be best. For the artist there is in the Virgin Islands an endless world of beautiful scenes and wonderful character studies. One who has never before painted in the Tropics will find here new lights, new colors, and new compositions; and if he specializes on portraits he will not want for a variety of models for pictures that will stand out in any exhibition. A noted academician leaving here with more than 50 canvasses declared that he must return for some of the hundreds of pictures he had missed. Transportation.—The Furness Withy Co. runs one steamer a month direct to St. Thomas and St. Croix during eight months of the year, and two steamers a month during the winter season. The Munson Line does the same, and their schedules alternate. The Bull-Insular steamer Catherine connects for St. Thomas at San Juan, Porto Rico, with other boats of her line to Baltimore and New York, and with the weekly service of the New York-Porto Rico Line. The direct route requires only five days and the indirect route takes eight days, including a 3-day stop-over in San Juan, Porto Rico. 22 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS Appendix A Temperature and rainfall The year January February March April May June July August September October N'ovcmber December St. Croix (Chris- tiansted) A verage tempera- ture for 28 years (°F.) re. 3 76.6 76.3 76.8 78.3 79.9 81.0 81.5 82.0 81.7 80.8 79.3 77.5 A verage rainfall for 28 years (inches) 47. 56 2.32 1.93 1.22 2.91 4.49 4.61 3.94 4.49 5.75 6.02 5.71 4.17 St. Thomas Average tempera- ture for 3 years (°F.) M.O 80.2 78.4 78.0 79.5 79.5 80.6 82.9 83.3 83.8 84.0 83.3 81.9 Average rainfall for 10 years (inches) 38. 23 2.87 2.24 .75 2.56 1.50 2. 3.35 2.32 2. 5. 6.42 4.41 Appendix B Rainfall (St. Thomas) Fiscal year Inches Fiscal year Inches Fiscal year Inches 1917-18 - 38. 85 42. 50 51.77 47.41 41.91 1922-23 33.99 41.35 51.59 40.98 48.47 1927-28 1928-29 53.71 1918-19 1923-24 60.49 1919-20 1924-25 1929-30 34.50 1920-21 1925-26 1930-31 53.91 1921-22 1926-27 Appendix C Rainfall (St. Croix) Year Inches Year Inches Year Inches 1900 45H 67 61 45 37 53 56 38 45 52 43 1911 45H 37 39 37H 65 Vi 59 39 46 51 V2 34 H> 30 1922 . 26}4 33 1901- 1912 1913 1914 1915.. 1923.. 1902 1924 39H 1903 1925 52 1904... 1926 39 1905 1916... 1927 48^i 1906-. 1917 1918 1928 1929 43 1907... 60 1908 1919 1920. . 1930 39 1909... 1931 49 1910 1921 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS Appendix D Sugar production and exportation statistics 23 Fiscal year 1900. 1901. 1902. 1903- 1904-_ 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 1924 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929 1930 1931 estimated at close- Acres taxed for cane 16, 298 16, 441 16, 428 15, 820 15, 704 15, 194 15, 068 13, 986 13, 550 14, 007 13, 901 13,710 13, 397 12, 744 11, 898 12, 474 12, 220 12, 627 12, 718 12, 498 12, 847 11,854 9,662 9,014 9,208 9,585 9,196 9,250 8,240 8, 135 Rainfall (inches) 45.1 , 67 (SI 45 37 53 56 38 45 52 43 45} 2 37 39 37? 2 65} 2 59 39 46 5VA 34} 2 30 26M 33 39} 52 39 4N=< 43 60 39 49 Total sugar crop (short tons) 8,614 15, 111 15, 937 9,419 11, 231 4,978 8,541 7,940 4,859 6,444 7,516 7,209 4,831 4,203 3,653 3,037 15, 334 7,725 5,841 9,723 13, 329 C 1 ) 6,345 1,948 2,385 10, 653 6,343 6,860 11, 275 2,825 1, 800 Total value of crop Total sugar exported (short tons) $395, 553, 357, 712, 1, 108, 533, 809, 600, 375, 500, 773, 681, 372, 308, 299, 280, 1,901, 1, 054, 1, 429, 4, 086, 2 1, 791, 2 549, 2 618, 2 191, 2 464, 2 942, 2 462, 1, 007, 258, 543. 00 639. 00 850. 00 057.00 524.00 177.00 836. 00 301.00 326. 00 734. 00 383. 00 227. 00 884. 00 903. 00 154. 00 817.00 121.00 428. 00 105. 00 244. 00 671.00 549. 65 833. 76 781.00 187. 97 544. 78 281. 97 862. 82 579. 58 086. 53 118,000.00 8,184 14, 520 14, 624 17, 354 11,665 13, 856 6,281 12, 190 5,834 2,010 5,505 5,332 5, 016 3,032 6,432 5,293 15, 000 6,000 5, 400 9,000 12,000 4,700 6,275 5,940 1,466 4,763 11, 228 5,166 8,497 8,004 5,372 4,643 1 Not available. 2 Total value of crop for these years not available. Figures given represent the value of sugar exported. It will be noted that in some years the amount exported is greater than the amount produced. This is on account of the fact that the fiscal year ends June 30, whereas the sugar crop for one year may not be sold until the next fiscal year; i. e., after June 30. Because of this the figures vary somewhat, in certain years, between the crop produced and the sugar exported. Appendix E Birth rate and death rate, Virgin Islands Year Birth rate Death rate Year Birth rate Death rate Year Birth rate Death rate 1910 32.4 28.9 28.3 29.5 29.6 26.1 26.9 34.7 36.2 37.3 36.7 36.2 31.0 29.0 1917 24.6 26.1 29.1 29.9 27.9 28.0 24.8 41.5 28.4 20.7 25.0 25.4 25.3 24.5 1924 25.4 24.3 23.5 21.2 21.7 19.0 26.9 23.1 1911 1918 1919 1920 1921 - 1925 19.2 1912 1926 19.1 1913 1927 22.8 1914._ 1928 25.1 1915 1922 1929 20.5 1916 1923 1930 22.0 24 GENERAL INFORMATION REGARDING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS Appendix F Censuses of Virgin Islands St. Thomas St. Croix St. John Year Males Females Total Males Females Total Males Females Total 1835 5,895 5,181 5,280 5, 536 5, 091 5,439 8,127 7,595 7,793 8, 130 7, 469 8,024 14, 022 12, 776 13, 073 13,666 12, 560 13, 463 14, 007 14, 389 12, 019 11,012 10, 678 10, 191 8,826 9,834 12, 365 11,713 10, 932 10, 834 10, 229 10, 485 14, 316 13, 911 13, 133 12,886 12, 633 12, 709 26,681 25, 624 24,065 23, 720 22, 862 23, 194 22, 760 18, 430 19, 783 18, 590 15, 467 14, 901 11,118 11,413 1,220 1,274 1, 184 1, 079 814 760 1,255 1,281 1,266 1,149 901 814 2, 475 1 1841 2, 555 IMr, 2, 450 1850 2, 228 1855 1,7151 1860 1, 574 1 |S7(! 1,054 ISM) 944fl 1890- 4, 627 4, 339 4,495 4,357 7,392 6,673 6,183 5,834 9,535 9,258 7,563 7,133 10,248 9, 332 7, 904 7,768 517 445 450 509 467 480 491 450 984 1901 925| I'.'l i '.Ml 1917 <)59 1927 i 7841 1930 765 Total. Virgin Islands Year Males Females Total Year Males Females Total 1835 19, 480 18, 168 17, 396 17,449 16, 134 16, 684 17, 284 23, 698 22, 787 22, 192 22, 165 21, 003 21,547 20, 537 43, 178 40, 955 39, 588 39, 614 37, 137 38, 231 37, 821 1880- 14, 889 14, 679 14,042 12, 508 11, 999 18, 874 18, 107 16, 485 14, 578 14, 052 33,763 32, 786 30, 527 27, 086 26, 051 20,728 22, 012 IMI 1890 1901.-- 1846 1850 1911 1917 1927 i 1 S55 |SH»*^Lf J^jifitT^ rf i^»> ^HtT^Y/i fy^fe^r*^^ *ku/ /M^mh^ri^^ iff^^^^L iSsirlN^'\» ^R0r\ JFT^hr* w'^F/^^siiv^rl/ \jUm'^\^ N%/lbl^^^ y^nH^ln pBcfi r%j ji ff>\ ) ^r ytM&ffiC 'P 7 / >i ^2ff*i/J sJ r 'T.* - *^^ '-jj&jtr\ WVm*-llr \k*\M '* fw jjrvT / K»J \J LjlvW^sJ~WC 'I rjrY? rfyfir ^ ^\MjSferkNA^i xJb* 1^ fct *d^w^k.'y &•*{/ ijP k wtmH^ •*. ^»'- v ' *jM+^yst jfWEb I ok i IV V nr>tt . nLtr ' **? ^4*TM# M^P\jFN^^^f y jj